Posted on May, 6, 2024 at 09:19 am
Garrett Oliver has been with Brooklyn Brewery for 30 years. Over that time, he has held a reputation for impeccable craftmanship. As author of The Brewmaster’s Table, the mostly widely-cited book about food and beer pairing, and as co-founder of Slow Food USA, Oliver has also earned a reputation for his culinary approach to beer. And as founder of The Michael James Jackson Foundation for Brewing and Distilling, which is dedicated to funding scholarships for Black, Indigenous, and People of Color within the brewing and distilling trades, Oliver is equally known for having social impact.
As part of the celebration of his 30th anniversary with Brooklyn Brewery, Oliver has launched “Brewing For Impact,” a global collaboration with breweries to showcase fonio, an ancient West African grain that is environmentally-friendly, climate-resistant and supports communities in Africa.
“What I’m looking to do is bring fonio into the conversation worldwide,” said Oliver in an interview by video call. Oliver learned of the grain, which thrives in nutrient-poor soil in the arid regions near the Sahel Desert where other crops fail — without the need for irrigation, fertilizers, pesticides or other chemical inputs — in a TED talk by Chef Pierre Thiam, the chef behind Teranga, a celebration of Africa’s diverse culinary traditions boasting two locations in New York City.
“Fonio is a zero input grain,” said Oliver. “And by using it, we are also supporting thousands of small farmers in Africa. Best of all, fonio makes amazing beer. I’ve brewed with other ancient grains like spelt, einkorn and many others and a lot of people don’t like the nutty, earthy flavors of those grains. But fonio tastes great.”
Oliver notes that fonio has been cultivated in Africa for over 5,000 years and that Africa is also the original home of beer. “Brewing with fonio ties to the genuine history of beer,” said Oliver. If Oliver has his way, breweries will adopt fonio on a broad basis, helping them meet their climate goals while making better beer.
For his part, Chef Pierre Thiam is pleased Oliver is helping spread the word about fonio. Thiam founded Yolélé, which imports and distributes fonio and wants to see widespread use of the grain. Thiam uses the grain in his own restaurants. “It has a neutral flavor and is delicate in texture,” said Thiam. “This is what makes it versatile.” Thiam has used fonio in salads, porridges and even sushi and endorses Oliver’s use of it in beer.
Source: Forbes