Posted on May, 18, 2025 at 09:57 pm
A timeless grain is making a quiet but powerful return. After decades of decline, millet, once a dietary and cultural cornerstone, is reclaiming its place in Uganda’s soils and society.
Driven by shifting climate patterns, rising food insecurity, and a renewed appreciation for indigenous crops, farmers in the eastern and northern parts of Uganda are warming up to millet not just as a cash crop but as a symbol of cultural survival and resilience.
“We almost forgot millet. For years, everyone wanted rice and maize because it was what the market asked for, but now millet is saving us,” Ms Josephine Nawanghoma, a farmer in Butesa Village in Butaleja District, told Monitor.
Unlike maize, which needs fertilisers and consistent rain, millet’s ability to thrive under harsh conditions—poor soils, low rainfall, and high temperatures—is drawing farmers back.
“With rains becoming erratic and droughts more frequent, millet is proving to be not just a traditional food but a modern solution,” Ms Juliet Musibika, an extension worker in Pallisa District, disclosed, adding of the crop, “It is the main ingredient in Bushera, a fermented drink served at weddings and funerals, and is a dietary staple among the Bagwere, Basoga, and Banyole. When we eat millet, we feel at home. It’s part of who we are, not just what we grow.”
Ms Sylvia Awori, a 52-year-old mother of five in Nagongera Sub-county in Tororo, says millet farming has given her financial independence. She is able to send “my last child to secondary school because I sell millet flour in the market.”
Ms Awori, who has no relations with the former Ugandan fashion designer, further told Monitor that hundreds of farmers are returning to intercropping millet and simsim—a time-tested practice that maximises land use, boosts yields, and improves food security.
Such a nourishing paste
Millet, a small-grained cereal, blossoms into brown, orb-shaped seeds. Each measuring about half a millimetre in diameter, the seeds are dried before being ground into flour. It’s then mingled with hot water to create a thick, nourishing paste known as obusima (millet flour).
Mr Weyre Samuel Hibinga, an elder in Butaleja District, in his book titled Aspects of Bunyole Culture: Myths and Facts, reveals that obusima is considered the “chief of all dishes” among the Abanyole. The flour is praised for its versatility, satiety, and compatibility with a wide range of soups. Typically, Bunyole millet flour is mixed in a 75:25 ratio with cassava flour. Mr Hibinga said the cassava, high in starch, lends the dish a smooth, sticky consistency.
“In other regions of Uganda, this dish exists under different names—kuon among the Luo, atapa in Teso, akalo or obutta in Buganda, and obusuma among the Samia—demonstrating millet’s deep roots in Uganda's culinary landscape,” he said. Mr Hibinga also described millet in his book as a medium of tradition.
Obusima, he writes, is central to ceremonial and spiritual life. It is the staple meal at significant customary events such as Ohulya ehigwaasi, a form of family communion to honour the spirits of the departed; Ohwahira obunya, the thanksgiving ceremony marking the consumption of the first harvest; Ohunghwabulula, a ritual to reverse curses or misfortune; and the socialisation of twins with the wider community.
The elders claim that in these sacred contexts, the sharing of obusima reflects unity, healing, and continuity across generations. From a nutritional perspective, millet is highly valued for its richness in fibre, protein, and essential minerals.
“Being gluten-free, it is especially beneficial for individuals with dietary restrictions […] the cassava contributes carbohydrates while the millet provides the remaining nutrients, making obusima a balanced, energising meal,” disclosed Mr Hibinga, who also wrote that a local proverb—Obutulire sibutya mumwi (i.e. dryness does not frighten millet)—highlights the crop's resilience.
Joined at the hip with simsim
Millet is planted by broadcasting seeds in prepared fields at the end of the dry season, taking advantage of early rains for germination.
After three to four weeks, fields are weeded to reduce competition. Following nearly four months, its mature heads are harvested. They are dried in the sun, and stored in traditional granaries known as ehyaagi.
In his book, Mr Hibinga explored a cultural hypothesis suggesting that the Abanyole may have migrated from the Abyssinia–Sudan–Egypt region where drought-tolerant millet varieties are widely cultivated even today. The grain’s resilience in dry conditions supports this theory, implying that the crop—and the people—have a long-standing history of adaptation to harsh climates.
According to Mr Hibinga, simsim (sesame) is another vital crop in Bunyole and eastern Uganda, both nutritionally and culturally. Ms Mirriam Nagawa, a clinical nutritionist, told Saturday Monitor that simsim is nutritionally potent—rich in oil, protein, calcium, and antioxidants.
“Simsim is believed to support heart health, reduce cholesterol, and protect against cell damage. Some studies even suggest anti-cancer properties,” Ms Nagawa said. In traditional Bunyole practices, sim sim is roasted or fried and then pounded into a thick paste. Mr Hibinga said this paste features prominently in ritual meals and spiritual ceremonies, often in combination with obusima.
Detailing how it is used in, he wrote: “Ehigwaasi: A communal meal where sesame paste is added to meat and served in a depression in the centre of a large obusima mound; Ohwahira obunya: A first-fruit thanksgiving; Ehinghwawo: The reversal of a curse or misfortune.” Beyond its ceremonial role, simsim is also valued for its healing properties. In traditional medicine, sesame paste is added to soups given to kwashiorkor patients, helping restore strength and nutrition. Under everyday circumstances, the paste is used to enrich vegetable and meat stews, acting as both a flavour enhancer and a nutritional supplement.
Role in cultural ceremonies
Millet is deeply rooted in Ugandan culture, especially among communities like the Bagisu, Acholi, Banyole and Lango. For instance, Mr Steven Masiga, the spokesperson of Inzu Yamasba, the Bugisu cultural institution, said Bamasaaba use millet mainly during the Imbalu ceremony.
“There are strong reasons for using millet. We mainly buy millet from Teso and other areas of Uganda because it can't grow on our soils. We use millet during the Imbalu [rites of passage] ceremony and after. We are happy that millet is back because people had abandoned it,” Mr Masiga said.
Bugisu Sub-region has particularly had to bear the brunt of a millet and sorghum shortage, not least because the grains cannot thrive in Bamasaaba soils, notably in parts of Bududa and Sironko. Millet, for one, is grown in the lower belts of the Busoba and Manafwa areas in Bugisu Sub-region.
Mr Ibra Musasizi, an elder in Mayuge District in Busoga Sub-region, told Monitor that the simplicity of millet processing and storage—it doesn’t rot easily, can be kept without refrigeration, and grinds well into flour—appeals to small-scale farmers.
“This cultural weight is now fuelling its revival. As younger generations reconnect with traditional knowledge and local food ways, millet is finding a place on both family tables and restaurant menus once more,” Mr Musasizi noted, adding that women have, from selecting seeds to preparing traditional dishes, come to be the custodians of millet’s legacy.
The legacy is also alive in Teso Sub-region where, in districts like Ngora, the grain and its cousin—simsim—are grown on the same small plots. The rotation between the two grains makes sense not just because the sub-region is dotted with low-rainfall areas but also because it has a high market value in the local population. “It’s like liquid gold. A few kilogrammes go for a good price.
And buyers from Kampala come all the way here to get it,” Mr David Oketch, a trader in Ngora District, said. “Millet and simsim are not just crops. They’re our culture, our past — and now, our future. For many Ugandan farmers, this revival isn’t just about food. It’s about culture, climate resilience, and reclaiming control over the land.”
For years, millet and simsim were slowly replaced by maize and rice—crops seen as more "modern" or marketable. But as maize yields falter under unpredictable rains and the cost of inputs rises, farmers like Ms Pauline Nabwire in Budaka District are going back to what they know best. “We used to grow millet because our grandparents did, but now we see it was smart. [Millet] grows even when the rains are poor,” she told Monitor, adding of simsim, which she grows on a half-acre plot, “[It] is easy to sell. Even a small harvest gives me money to send my children to school.”
With rising demand in urban centres for simsim snacks and cooking oil, women like Ms Nabwire are capitalising on growing niche markets.
But this comeback isn’t just about climate resilience; it’s about cultural pride. In many eastern Ugandan communities, millet and simsim are more than food. They are a tradition. A tradition with women at its heart. They are the custodians of indigenous seed varieties, the keepers of cooking traditions, and often the primary vendors in local markets. According to Mr Apollo Lyadda, the prime minister of Bunyole Cultural Institution, millet is more than just a crop — it is the identity of the Banyole people.
“The millet’s role in ensuring food security. It is a reliable staple that sustains households even during difficult seasons. Millet is good for food security,” Mr Lyadda said.
Per Mr Lyadda, millet was traditionally used to celebrate the birth of twins—a joyful and rare event in the community. It also played a vital role in rituals where elders bestowed blessings, highlighting its sacred value. He disclosed that the three main symbols of the Banyole are: millet, representing food and sustenance; the spear, symbolising protection as well as the fight against evil or enemies; and the mushroom, which stands for the sauce or flavour of life, essential, nourishing, and grounding.
A case for the grains
Millet is planted every January, aligning with the seasonal rains. It is then harvested between June and August, depending on the region and rainfall patterns. After harvest, millet is traditionally stored in a granary known as an ehyaagi. These structures are typically raised off the ground on stilts to protect the grain from moisture, rodents, and termites.
“We store millet in a granary for years,” he said, adding that properly stored millet can last several months to a full year, depending on household practices and conditions. “Small amounts are collected as needed,” he added, “for preparing obusima (millet bread) or brewing malwa (local millet beer).”
Nutritionally, millet is rich in iron, calcium, and fibre. It is also gluten-free, making it important for food security and health. Since it is intercropped with legumes like cowpeas or groundnuts, it is bound to chime with President Museveni’s four-acre model.
As of May 2025, the retail prices for millet and simsim in Uganda vary depending on the region and market. Retail price for millet ranges between Shs7,067 and Shs12,275 per kilogramme in major markets like Kampala, Mbale, Lira, Gulu and Jinja.
The retail price for simsim, meanwhile, is between Shs27,578 and Shs41,005 per kilogramme “Millet and simsim are drought-tolerant, require minimal chemical input, and are perfectly suited for Uganda’s shifting weather patterns. As climate change continues to wreak havoc on rainfall patterns and soil quality, farmers are turning back to what has worked for centuries,” Mr Fred Opolot, an agronomist, said. “Millet, with its deep roots and short growth cycle, can survive heat waves that wipe out maize fields. Simsim thrives in poor soils and stores well without refrigeration — a lifeline for regions with erratic infrastructure.”
Give us this day our daily bread…
A Monitor survey indicates that some restaurants are also catching on, offering millet bread and simsim-encrusted tilapia as gourmet options.
Simsim is an ancient oilseed crop widely grown in Uganda, especially in the eastern and northern regions like Lira, Soroti, and Serere. It’s cultivated mainly by smallholder farmers.
“Millet and simsim are more than traditional foods. They are climate-smart solutions for the 21st century. They can lift rural families out of poverty while preserving the environment,” Ms Mary Katushabe, an agricultural economist, told Monitor.
“In the past, millet porridge was the first meal for a new mother and the final offering at a burial. Simsim paste sweetened childhood memories, paired with roasted cassava or warm maize bread. Then came the decline. Youth turned to fast foods, and markets shifted to quick-profit crops like maize and rice.”
Monitor understands that there is renewed demand for millet flour, especially for brewing traditional malwa, and simsim is fetching high prices thanks to its oil-rich seeds. The most common types in Uganda are finger millet (eleusine coracana) and pearl millet (Pennisetum glaucum).
Finger millet is more widespread, especially in eastern, northern, and parts of central Uganda. According to the National Agricultural Research Organisation (NARO), simsim and millet are two of Uganda’s most resilient crops. They tolerate poor soils, need minimal inputs, and resist many common pests and diseases.
Recent data from the Uganda Bureau of Statistics (Ubos) shows that simsim prices have risen by more than 30 percent in the past two years due to increased demand from local oil processors and export markets.
Millet, too, is enjoying a renaissance, especially in urban areas where health-conscious consumers are choosing it over refined cereals for its nutritional benefits. Under the Agro-Industrialisation Strategy, the Ministry of Agriculture, Animal Industry and Fisheries (Maaif) is prioritising millet and simsim as part of Uganda’s food security and value addition plans. Growing them together can help reduce the spread of certain pests and diseases, as the different crops may disrupt pest life cycles.
Source: The Monitor